Saturday Stroll - To Summers Past

Saturday stroll is a little late this week, mostly because it lasted until Monday. Yes, we took a long and much needed weekend away. Arriving home late Monday afternoon, there was the unpacking, laundry, a zillion updates to make to the website, and a thousand RT thanks to make on twitter before I could actually sit down and compose my thoughts.

With the unseasonably cold and rainy May we had this year, I thought we just might have another week or two of spring left to explore the city, but it went from chilly to scorching with a snap of the finger. And as soon as it gets this hot, all strolls are off and you either run and duck for cover or join the rest of the Neapolitans in a four month long celebration of the sun. One of what I call their five religions, God, family, the sun, the sea, and football, and not necessarily in that order, they don’t hide from the sun, they bake in it.

Whether out in their boats which fill the bay like a thousand Navy sailors decked out in their summer whites, or basking along the shore line, sun lovers appear sometimes as early as April and stay as late as November. Along Lungomare they crowd into the few small public beaches, one at Rotunda Diaz and one at Piazza Vittoria, or bask on the characteristic white rocked reefs that dot Naples shoreline.

Rotunda Diaz - Before the Crowds

Along the Posillipo coast they flock into the famed bagnos (bathing beaches) – Elena, Sirena, and Ideal or the Marechiaro bagnos at the Capo Posillipo where for €10.00 or €15.00 you can rent a sun bed and umbrella for the day.

Early Morning at the Posillipo Bagnos

Then there are the private beaches hidden in the many coves along the Posillipo coast, which is where we spent our last four summers. Each day we made the long and arduous journey across the street to a gated residential area known as Villa Martinelli. Not really a “parco,” Villa Martinelli is more an odd collection of turn of the century palazzi (five or six story tall apartment buildings), the more modern condos built around the 1960s or 70s, and the remains of Villa Mazziotti and Villa Cappella, which eventually became Villa Martinelli, from which the area takes its name.

Villa Martinelli in the foreground and Villa Mazziotti in the background

Perched along the shear tufo rock cliff, this conglomerate of old and new buildings make their descent from Via Posillipo to the water’s edge, which by my estimation is some 20 stories down or more. And into that cliff, the product of pure Neapolitan ingenuity, an elevator shaft was installed, our primary transportation to our summer hideaway. For € .20 you can cram three people into a tiny and sometimes unlit box to make the long descent through the cliff, that is, when it is working.

Otherwise, it is a long trek down a windy and narrow one lane road with five hairpin turns, where traffic runs in both directions, and car horns and mirrors at each bend direct the traffic. Strolling down the hill, either on the street or trekking down the three staircases that span the levels of the road is a fairly enjoyable walk with spectacular views. Making the journey up in the sweltering 90+ degree heat when the elevator is not working – well that’s another story.

Once you reach the bottom of the road, it is just one more staircase to the final destination, a Pompeii red two story building with bright blue doors set at the center of a wide cove, home to some 50 or so little cabinas (cabanas). Fairly rare in this city, they are larger than the typical changing room type cabana you might be familiar with. Almost tiny apartments really, they have a bathroom with a shower, a small kitchenette with a stove and refrigerator, and room enough to cook and change clothes. And while the two of us might have felt a bit cramped, most cabinas are home to families of eight or more.

The Villa Martinelli Cabinas and Villa Mazziotti

Most of our friends in the neighborhood have a cabina at Villa Martinelli, so every weekend is like going to beach with your large extended family. Moms and dads, grandfathers and grandmothers, and tots to teens gather to worship the sea, the sun, and of course there is fabulous food, great wine and animated conversation. Fresh cozze (mussels) harvested right from the sea are thrown into big pots to cook and served in the classic manner, either with lemon or pepper; pans of Pasta al Pomodoro (tomato) simmer on the stove; plates are piled high with fresh balls of Mozzarella di Bufala; crumbs from crusty fresh loaves of bread litter the tables; jugs are filled with ice cold white wine and peaches; and fresh watermelon, cantaloupe, cherries, and in late summer, Indian figs top it off. The smells and tastes of summer.

There is a definite rhythm to Villa Martinelli that repeats itself each weekend during the summer and everyday during ferie (the summer holidays in August). Families start to arrive mid morning and the kids head immediately for the water. The men pull out the tables, chairs, sun beds, toys, and other beach paraphernalia while the women put the groceries away. Next, the men head out to get mussels and the occasional polipo (octopus) while the women start cooking. Emerging from the water with overflowing netted bags of mussels tied around their waists, they all meet up to clean them. Lunch is usually served around two, three courses followed by fruit, dolce (dessert), and of course caffè. Then it’s a nap or a swim for the adults and play time for the kids. In the late afternoon you’ll find groups of men and groups of women playing cards in the shade.

An amazing summer routine we were very fortunate to be a part of. So why give it up, you wonder? Well we really haven’t… we have a standing invitation to Villa Martinelli with just about everyone in the neighborhood. But this year we wanted to do something a bit different – head out and explore the many fabulous destinations that are just a short ferry ride away, the islands of Capri, Ischia and Procida, Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast, and maybe even journey to some other beaches around the Med. Our first jaunt this weekend took us to our favorite island in the gulf, Ischia. And in fact, we enjoyed it so much we are heading back there again next weekend. So next Saturday stroll we'll take you to our favorite hideaway on Ischia, and after that who knows where you'll find us next. 

Saturday Stroll - Downhill

It was a late night Friday night. Well, to be honest, the night ended early Saturday morning. It was a Paella and Sangria spettacolo at what is becoming one of our favorite haunts in Fuorigrotta, the Pitagoras Restaurant. The food was great, the flamenco dancers (from Andalucia) were fantastic, the guitarist and singer reminded me of our time in Andalucia, Spain, and the Sangria did its job.

Arriving home late, we found the crowd at the JenLine pub below our apartment had thinned out so we sat down to catch up with some old friends. Antonio, who you met on last Saturday's stroll was in the mood to reminisce about his childhood, the years just after WWII. Times were tough then, tougher than most of us can imagine now. His five brothers and sisters, parents and grandparents, ten in all cramped into a on room apartment in Casale di Posillipo. Some days the only thing they had to eat was a small piece of bread and broth made from discarded pea and bean pods. Meanwhile, the rich would crowd into the restaurant that is now Reginella's and the young kids would stare into the windows dreaming of what it would be like to have a real meal.

We finally made it upstairs just a few hours before sunrise and put our weary bones to bed. A cool breeze snuck through the window shutters waking us up just before noon. Stumbling to the kitchen I put on the caffe, and we followed it with a hearty Neapolitan breakfast of melon, prosciutto crudo, and fresh squeezed OJ. Shaking the self-induced cobwebs from our head we started the day. Normal stuff, you know, the life of a twitter, blogger, apartment dweller in Napoli.

As the bright afternoon sun started its descent, we grabbed our cameras and headed out the door. Since we  took a right and headed up the hill last Saturday, we took a left and headed down the hill. Not only do we love the views this way, we also both knew that at the end of this journey, we would find a Cappucino Freddo and Caffe del Nonno waiting for us at Chalet Ciro in Mergellina, one of the best pasticcerias in the city.

There are no "you have to see" monuments this way, with perhaps the exception of the forever photographed Palazzo Donn'Anna.

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There is, however, an endless and priceless panoramic view of the Gulf of Naples, the city, Vesuvio and Capri. Flowers are everywhere, whether they're in gardens, on terraces or simply in boxes on the many balconetti along the way.We pass restaraunts setting up for the receptions of the many June weddings here. We catch a glimpse of Castel Sant'Elmo looking down on the city. 

Further down we walk by Bagno Elena,  Bagno Sirena and Bagno Ideal, three of Naples best bathing beaches. It's still early in the season and the chairs are lined up like red, yellow and blue soldiers. 

The beach has been smoothed, and the only footprints you see were made by the sand zamboni operator.

One last turn, a walk around Largo Sermoneta, and we have a seat at one of the yellow tables at Chalet Ciro. See you next Saturday!

Saturday Stroll - Strolling The Dream

Naples 16th annual May of the Monuments came to a close this weekend and we were sad to see it go. Bravo to Comune di Napoli and everyone involved for putting on an excellent event that highlighted the historical, artistic and cultural heritage of this great city. We found ourselves in neighborhoods we didn't know about and exploring sections of the city that, even after 5 years here, we didn't know existed. This Saturday Stroll takes us back into the familiar - our neighborhood. We chose this stroll for a couple of reasons: first, we're exhausted after running all over the city this past month, and second, we wanted to share what a normal Saturday for normal Napolitani is like.

As chaotic as it seems, here in Napoli things run on a fairly rigid time schedule and after you live here a while, you tend to fall right in. Up by 8 a.m., either by habit or the noise on the street pushing you out of bed, one starts the day with caffe. Kimbo caffe and a Bialetti espresso maker become your best morning friends. Add a few cornetti and you have the classic Neapolitan breakfast.

Next, we make short work of the dishes (by hand of course - no dishwashers in this apartment except for me), make the bed, throw on some clothes and we're out the door to do our daily shopping. We learned early on that its best to shop daily and that the earlier you get out, the better selection you'll find. Neapolitan store owners know exactly how much to stock. Get there late and they are liable to have run out, especially when it comes to bread and fresh fruits and vegetables.

All the negozzi (small stores) in our neighborhood are local. No supermarkets to really speak of. There is one down the hill, a CONAD, but even that's the size of a 7-11 in the States. The stores generally open their doors around 8:30 a.m., close for pausa around 2:30 p.m. and re-open again from around 5:00 p.m. until 8:30 p.m.

We start at Salumeria Buono, our neighborhood grocer if you will. The word salumeria translates to delicatessen, but it is so much more. The deli case is filled with the finest prosciuttos in Italy - crudo and cotto; speck, pancetta and mortadella - the original Bologna; the best salamis, Milanese and Napoletano of course; the all important parmeggiano-reggiano and a variety of other cheeses; and tubs filled with all types of olives. Mozzarella di Bufala, big white balls float in huge bowls of water on top of the deli case. Hard, crusty breads spill out of the bins behind. But that's only half the story, because the Salumeria also carries most of the essentials like olive oil and vinegar, pastas and rice, flour and sugar, milk and butter, sweets, and much more. And if we are too lazy to go to the Enoteca (wine store) or Panificio (bread store) down the road, we grab our wine, beer and bread here as well .

Walking into the Salumeria you immediately sense the difference between shopping here and in the States or the UK. A family run operation like all of the stores in our neighborhood, Ricardo and his son Salvatore are manning the deli counter while Rosa is minding the cash register, her new grandson Antonio on her knee. People are catching up on news, eating hunks of bread or cheese, and if it's a holiday season, you just might get offered a glass champagne or some other confection to celebrate the season. More of a social event than a shopping trip, the buying of merchandise is really secondary to catching up with family and friends.

Making our way up the sidewalk we say Buon Giorno to Antonio. The father of three and grandfather of five, including his namesake, Antonio from the Salumeria, he is in the pub cleaning up from the night before and getting ready for lunch service. A family operation in every sense of the word, everyone helps out. Antonio's wife makes all of the fresh contorni (vegetables and side dishes), his son-in-law cooks in the evening and his daughter and sons do everything else. Even his son's father-in-law helps out by cooking the daily lunch menu - your choice of two pasta dishes, a drink and bread  for €5,00. We'll definitely be back for that!

Next stop is Bottega del Pollo da Carlo, our neighborhood Polleria (chicken butcher). A tiny shop filled with the freshest poultry, Carlo took over the polleria from his father many, many years ago, and he will soon pass it on to his son Massimiliano. His rotisserie sits just outside his store luring customers in with the wonderful aromas of roasted chicken.

Inside, his meat case is loaded with whole chickens and rabbits, chicken parts, pork loin, and sausages. Fresh eggs are stacked to the ceiling on the shelves nearby. We've known Carlo and his wife Claudia since the day we moved here and can always count on their friendship. We can also always count on him to make our second caffe of the day. Taking a seat on the small step ladder inside his shop, we sip our caffe and catch up on all the news of the day.

Next door is Mario's. Mario runs the Fruttivendolo (fruit and vegetable store) and a little Salumeria of his own with his wife and three kids. Fresh vegetables and fruits are why we're here and Mario doesn't disappoint. Overflowing green crates that climb the walls outside of his store are filled with the freshest produce - cherry and Sorrentine tomatoes, eggplants and zucchini, crisp green lettuces, red and yellow peppers, lemons and oranges, and the best fruits of the season. Mario sells seasonal produce only, so you don't want to be asking him for melons in November, but he and his wife are always happy to offer tips on how to prepare their produce, Neapolitan style of course.

Walking across the piazza we run into other friends from the neighborhood. The morning shop is a way to let everyone know that you're OK, all is well (or not well) with your family, whether you're working or not, and generally saying hello and wishing others well in our small piece of the city.

A "quick" stop in the Farmacia (pharmacy) comes next to pick up a prescription, then its off to the Tabaccheria (tobacco shop) next door. More a catch-all store than a tobacco shop, they carry pretty much everything else you need: bus tickets and lotto tickets, cleaning products and sundry items, copier and fax services, birthday gifts, and of course, tobacco.Your one-stop shop. I walked in here the other day and after a big order including my monthly bus tickets, I found myself €18,00 short. Not only did Antonio tell me to pay him later, but he reached in the till and offered me €50,00 back so I wouldn't be out of cash. When is the last time that happened to you? Only in Napoli.

Walking through the crowd in front of Gelateria Bilancioni (for unbelievably great gelato) our last stop is at the Macelleria (butcher). A side of beef and half a pig hang in the glass reefer and fresh cuts of beef, veal and pork fill his display cases. Both the macelleria and polleria have few pre-butchered products so if you want to make a veal scallopini that night, he will slice it (and pound it) to order. No need to buy a pound  or 1/2 a pound - just tell him how many slices you want and that is what you'll get - even if you only want one. Bruno works with his son Gianni and is a Neapolitan history buff who loves to regale us with stories, this time, the tales of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies.

Our morning shop and stroll is done. We covered no more than 300 meters in just less than 2 hours. We've caught up with our friends and our neighbors. Now I'm getting hungry for lunch. What's the pub serving today?